I follow the highway north of Mui Ne forgetting to sunscreen my hands and burning them almost purple for the next few days. It’s desert. Rising dunes, first red, then later yellow to white. What look like shifty industrial operations appear from time to time, pumping water up from the sea and filling dark pools dug into the dunes. It all looks slightly unprofessional and haphazard, like it’s being done on the sly, and I feel compelled to pretend not to notice for some reason and only look at them with sidelong glances. Alien and out of place I can’t imagine what’s going on here. Only by chance do I hear a Vietnamese staff person say a word that sounds vaguely like “titanium.” An internet search later turns up pictures of the machinery I was seeing. Vietnam is one of the richest sources of the valuable metal.

The next day, I leave Mui Ne to sample another side of Binh Thuan. About a half an hour south of Phan Thiet after passing through more dunes and brush, my taxi rounds a bend in the road and we are suddenly surrounded by dragon fruit farms and rice paddies at the entrance to Princess d’Annam Resort and Spa. One of Vietnam’s latest luxury resorts, the Princess shares a curving sandy bay with just a tiny fishing village. The property’s eight acres show a lush central ginger garden, reflecting pools, and a collection of villas that guests apparently have trouble getting out of. Despite the area attractions – the 1897 French-built lighthouse on Ka Ge Island just 300 meters offshore, Takou Mountain and its enormous reclining Buddha, sailing and windsurfing right in front of the resort – guests are choosing to simply sit and enjoy a bit of pampering in a truly luxurious environment.

This took the resort’s general manager Jean-Philippe Beghin by surprise. “We were so paranoid about providing enough activities, but it turns out clients just want to take it easy.” Vietnam has long been a touring destination with travelers hitting all the highs across the country in a week or two. The Princess d’Annam takes the Mui Ne beach destination concept and adds five stars of meditative bliss. Touring has its challenges like anywhere – language barriers, the constant travel and changing of hotels. Many of the travelers who arrive at Princess d’Annam are looking for “a breathing space before they go out.” A two-story luxury spa overlooking the sea, a gourmet chef in the kitchen, and a wine list topping 100 vintages help make a very nice space indeed.

I’m there for work – run to all the sights, take photos, take notes, interview people, sleep, wake, repeat – and as soon as I step onto the gleaming marble walkway into the lobby I don’t want to do a damn thing. I want to be horizontal poolside with a drink and a book. I could stare for hours at the bobbing blue fishing boats and their flags snapping in the breeze and the lighthouse high up on its rocky perch painted in soft colors by the intervening haze. The staff offers to take me out for a quick sail before I have to leave to catch my train back in Phan Thiet but though I love being on the water, I almost decline for just a few more moments of chilling out. Instead I climb on, bob around the bay, and get soaked through to my wallet (fortunately I didn’t have my cell phone or camera along). The young man – one of 200 employees at the resort, all locals in an otherwise underemployed area – is quite skilled and maneuvers the little catamaran in and out of the fishing boats. The men shout to me and I ask him what they say. He says they are inviting me aboard to eat and drink with them. It doesn’t sound that gregarious, but what do I know?

Back ashore I change quickly for the ride back to the station and reluctantly I head back for Saigon. Binh Thuan is on the travel radar now, adding its own version of the Vietnamese experience as Mui Ne and Ka Ge have changed “going there” to “being there.” While somewhere in Hue or Danang tourists board another bus for the next attraction, guests at the Princess gather quietly at the seaside terrace to sip wine and watch the sun set over the dunes at the end of the bay.

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If You Go

The Binh Thuan coast is easily reached by train from Saigon in about 4 hours. Be sure to book the newer Golden Train for Phan Thiet which runs once a day each way. Be aware that the name is a bit of an exaggeration. It is more like the sorta "Golden Car" as it is still attached to a standard old train and is a bit nicer than the rest.

For about 225,000 VND I purchased the r/t ticket and had it delivered to my hotel. Couldn't be easier. Snacks are served on board. From Phan Thiet station take a taxi to your place in the Mui Ne strip or down to Ka Ge. Look for a Mai Linh taxi - they use meters.

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